Fashion 1910 - 1920

From 1910 until the start of the First World War in 1914, skirts gradually grew shorter and began to reveal tantalizing glimpses of the ankle. The overall silhouette of dresses also changed slightly, moving toward a slimmer, narrower and straighter line that emphasized the hips and busts. As the war began in 1914, attention and materials were drawn away from fashion design, and no significant fashion developments occurred again until peace was declared at the end of 1918.

The very difficult to walk in hobble skirt. Many women adapted to this new trend between 1900 and 1914. The slim figure was usually complimented by a really oversized hat.

The Suffragettes

1912 was a turning point for the suffragette women, they started using much more voilent tactics to get votes for women. The colours they would tend to wear were purple, white and green. These colours signified dignity, purity and hope.

In the above video, determined suffragette Emily Davison attempts to attatch a 'VOTES FOR WOMEN' banner to the kings horse at a Derby.

During this decade men also had to dress appropriately, athough, clothing gradually became less formal and the lounge suit became more well known.

British tailoring was considered the best around, the wealthier of the population shopped at famous tailors in London's Bond Street and Saville Row.

Smoking jackets were the male equivalent of the tea gown. Made of soft fabrics, which meant the wearer could relax.

In 1914 the hat started to become reserved for formal occasions only.

 World War 1 created significant changes in fashion design, fabrics and manufacture.

Surprisingly, when Germany declared war on France in August 1914, Paris Fashion Week went ahead as planned! Fashion is clearly more important. Unfortunatey, the effects of the war began to affect high society, there was no longer money for luxury couture.

Many male couturiers signed up for service, this left women in charge of work places. America did not enter the war until 1917, this meant its fashion industry supported the French fashion houses.

Silhouettes remained column like, peplums started to appear along with layered skirts and drapes. In 1915 designers introduced military styles to their collections. Tailored jackets and suits with waisted silhouettes became very fashionable.

By 1916 hemlines were creeping up and practical clothing was becoming increasingly important.Women were encouraged to enter the work force meaning more practical womenswear was desperatley in need, womens fashion merged with mens. They wore breeches, dungrees, boiler suits and low heeled lace up boots.

For women workers, softer corsets were made for supporting the body instead of shaping it.

Daywear became the most important, the war also saw the decline of tea gowns.

Gabrielle Chanel, the most successful designer to transform the design of the wartime dress making it fashionable. She also developed trends for more practical, sporty clothing.

Jersey was previously used for mens sportswear and underwear, Chanel made this the height of womens fashion aswell. Manufacturers were quick to cpoy her great ideas.

After the war, the demand for wedding dresses gave the fashion industry a massive boost, couture houses enjoyed the booming trade.

In 1921 Chanel was the first ever fashion designer to put her name to a scent bottle. Chanel No 5 was launched and has been a massive hit.